Remember when Pre-Fall was a low-key season of showroom appointments? Suffice it to say, things have changed! Following the success of Resort’s many “destination shows,” perhaps it was only a matter of time before global brands like Valentino, Dior Homme, Coach 1941, and Versace planned similar productions for Pre-Fall. (Chanel, of course, has shown its Métiers d’Art collections during Pre-Fall for years.) Today, Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli is kicking off a marathon of big-ticket Pre-Fall shows, most of which aren’t even happening on this side of the globe. Piccioli chose Tokyo, Japan, to debut his new men’s and women’s Pre-Fall collections, marking his first coed show. Later this week, Kim Jones will stage his Dior Homme Pre-Fall show in Tokyo, too (a menswear-specific Pre-Fall show is an even bigger surprise), and next weekend, Stuart Vevers will show his men’s and women’s Coach 1941 Pre-Fall collections in Shanghai, China.
That’s a lot of firsts, but this isn’t actually Valentino’s first Tokyo show. Back in 1982, Valentino Garavani joined Sonia Rykiel, Norma Kamali, Kansai Yamamoto, and Hanae Mori in Tokyo for a special “The Best Five’s ’83” showcase; at the time, The New York Times wrote that it was “an attempt . . . to give Tokyo its place alongside Milan, London, Paris, and New York, where the current collections have been introduced, as a leading fashion center.” Thirty-six years later, Tokyo has certainly established itself on that list; it’s now a top market for most luxury brands and is driving trends in fashion and retail. But if you can’t make the journey, you can get a glimpse of the action by watching the Valentino show live here. It’s starting at 8:00 p.m. local time, or 6:00 a.m. EST—and even if you aren’t up before dawn to see it, the stream will keep looping all day. Check back later for Hamish Bowles’s review, plus more Vogue Runway coverage of the show.